The cost of a radon test is $195.00. If done in conjunction with a home inspection the fee is $150.00.
Radon monitor will be set up in the lowest livable space in the home for 48 hours and should not be disturbed. All windows and doors must remain closed during the test, except for normal entry or exit. Heating and air systems should be operated normally during the radon test. At the end of the test, results will be downloaded and a statistical report with test results will be emailed to the client.
Testing the soil prior to building cannot predict what the radon levels will be once the house is completed. The impact that the site preparation will have on introducing radon pathways in the home, and the extent or affect air pressure will have in the finished home, can affect radon levels and your exposure.
MDH recommends every Minnesota home, even those built radon-resistant, be tested for radon. You should retest your home every 2 – 5 years and save your results. Be sure to test before and after you make any major structural renovations such as building an addition or finishing a basement. Radon-resistant techniques can be inexpensively included as part of the renovation, if needed. You should also perform a radon test after buying a new heating system or adding central air conditioning.
A neighbor’s test result is a poor predictor of your radon risk because each home can have different indoor radon levels. Furthermore, previous test results may not reflect current or future radon levels if the home has been remodeled, weatherized or had changes to its heating, air conditioning or other ventilation systems (such as exhaust fans).
There is no known safe level of radon. As your exposure to radon is increased, so is your risk for developing lung cancer. Even levels below 4.0 pCi/L pose some risk.
Good news, if your home has a radon problem, it can be fixed. Radon is relatively easy to repair. Sometimes, all it takes is sealing up cracks and openings in basement floors, foundation walls, openings around pipes, etc… If there is a crawl space, often times placing a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) over the bare soil with help the problem. In other cases, it may be necessary to install a special suction system that draws the air from under the basement floor and exhausts outside the home. This is called a sub-floor de-pressurization system.